Outerwear Glossary

Outerwear Glossary

 3/4 Length--A hip-length garment.

Action back--Also called a bi-swing back. A jacket back with deep pleats extending upward to each shoulder for added freedom of movement. Used most frequently for activewear or golf jackets.

Antron(r)--Fabric made from a trademarked trilobal fiber by DuPont. This taffeta nylon fabric is distinguished by its shiny finish.

Award jacket--This generic term is used to describe an athletic jacket, usually a waist-length style with knit collar, cuffs and waistband. It can feature a zipper or snap front. Often used interchangeably with baseball jacket.

Barn coat--A hip-length coat, usually made of a sturdy material like canvas. This style almost always features a full cut, open sleeves, straight bottom hem, large pockets on the lower portion of the jacket, and a full-length zipper or button front.

Bench coat--Hooded, knee-length jacket, slipped over the head and zippered at the neck. Copied from jackets worn by football players waiting on the bench. Also called a benchwarmer.

Bomber jacket--Also called a flight jacket. A loose, zippered jacket with fitted waist and cuffs, resembling those worn by American bomber pilots in World War II. Can be made from nylon, woven blends or leather. Usually has a fur or pile collar, double-entry cargo pockets, and set-in sleeves with a pocket on the sleeve. Traditionally, this is a heavier-weight jacket with a shearing or quilt lining.

Byron collar--A pointed, shirt-style collar named after the English poet, Lord Byron.

Cargo pocket--An expandable pocket, with side pleats, sewn to the shell.

Coach's jacket--Style of jacket comparable to a basic windbreaker, with fold-over (Byron) collar and slash pockets. Usually features a snap front and drawstring waist. Can be lined or unlined.

Dolman sleeve--A sleeve tapering from a wide opening at the armhole to a narrow one at the wrist.

Double-entry pocket--A pocket that may be entered from the top or side.

Golf jacket--Any type short waist-length jacket, frequently made of lightweight nylon with a zip front, worn when playing golf. Pleated or action back is usually a feature on these jackets.

Kangaroo pocket--Also known as a muff pocket. A large single front pocket with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle.

Kasha lining--A lining principally for jackets that is napped to create a flannel-like effect on the face and features unbrushed fabric on the back. Kasha can be made from cotton, wool or a synthetic material like polyester or nylon.

Laundered taslon/oxford--A laundered fabric with a somewhat wrinkled look.

Letterman jacket--Also known as a varsity jacket. Typically refers to an athletic jacket with a melton wood body (14 to 24 ounces) and leather sleeves. Sleeves can be raglan or set-in. Usually differs from an award jacket in that award jackets are made with lighter-weight fabrics such as nylon or wovens.

Microfiber fabrics--Small fibers are used to create fabrics with a suede-like, soft hand.

Oxford nylon--A stiff coarse nylon fabric with a basket-like weave and a durable finish. It's generally used for award/baseball/athletic style jackets. Not as smooth as a taffeta nylon.

Parka--This loose-fitting, hip-length jacket, usually hooded, often comes with a fleece or pile lining. It was worn originally by Eskimos and introduced to the public during the 1930s for winter sportswear.

Patch pocket--A pocket made by sewing a patch of shaped material to the outside of a garment. Usually made of self-material and generally has no pleats or lining.

Poplin--A durable, plain weave class of fabrics which has fine cross ribs. Heavier than broadcloth, but not similar, poplin is usually made of a polyester/cotton blend.

Quilt lining--A lining with two or more layers that are padded with filling.

Raglan sleeve--A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from neck to underarm. The sleeve continues in one piece to the collar so there are no seams at the shoulder allowing for ease of movement.

Satin nylon--This type of satin-finish material is usually made of nylon. According to one manufacturer, satin nylon is probably the most common satin fabric used in our industry. There are two types of satin nylon used most commonly in our field: taffeta and "crow's foot" or pro-weight (heavier). Rayon (or bridal) satin is used occasionally for jackets, but it is a more expensive, dry-clean-only fabric.

Set-in sleeve--A style of sleeve that is sewn into the shoulder seam (as opposed to the neck seam).

Slash pockets--These angled pockets are formed by cutting a slash in the jacket shell and attaching a pouch inside the garment.

Stadium jacket--The term for a 3/4-length oversize jacket. Other common features include a hood, quilt lining and striped knit trim. Somewhat similar to a parka.

Stand-up collar--This short collar, usually made of knit material, does not fold down against the garment. Common feature on satin award jackets.

Storm flap--A strip of fabric that covers the zipper or snap closure of a jacket. Storm flaps can also be sewn on the inside of the zipper.

Storm welts--Pocket flaps that overlap openings to keep out rain and/or to secure items carried inside.

Taffeta--A group of fabrics made with a plain weave and having a smooth, crisp feel, and either lustrous or dull face.

Taslon--This imported nylon fabric is designed for its durability and is generally used in more rugged outerwear.

Tricot--This type of fabric is flat knitted, with fine ribs on the face (lengthwise) and ribs on the back (crosswise). Often used as lining material.

Warp--A lengthwise yarn found in all woven fabrics. The warp is stronger and denser than the weft (crosswise) yarns.

Compiled by Sam Dixon, vice president for outerwear, Augusta Sportswear